Sunday, March 2, 2008

at amritsar







so many things to see at amritsar. esp the show time at the Wagar boder. the border security forces of india are train to hate the forces at Pakistan. it's so happening that it was like a both side of stadium, both countries cheering for each other. the guards will perform high kicks and amazing stunt to out run each the guard from the other side.






other than this, the golden temple was amaing. it was truely an eye opener for us and to see how unite the sikh community is. we were very touched by them.






not forgetting how india gain it's independance, many innercent people were killed in this garden by the british. we watched the show 'Ghandi' and understood more about the effort put into independance. we really hope that the faith of india will carry on, as 50 years back, how they gain independance and carry on.

Fund Raising



dear friends,


we been to the golden temple. hereby we seek your help in buying our Sikh pendend. i cleanse it with the water in the golden temple. we are letting it off at SGD$100.00.
please leave me a message and i will get the pendent to sent to you.
thank you.

u can help us, else don't disturb us.

India so far, we been to 3 states. best is punjab and rajastan.

You can help us or else don’t disturb us.

It’s always the case where after a long and tiring ride, where we are hungry for food and lodging, we will search for a guest house for Hope Too and a cheap one. I will leave Sam and Hope Too outside while I enter to the reception to enquire about the room rates and parking facility. I have to make it quick because we are tired and Sam is outside, looking after the bike and have to endure the crowd. Those that will approach us to introduce a place for stay are commission earners and we will end up paying almost double. Others that approached will try to feel and touch Hope Too and try to ask about its’ capabilities. We are very tired and always, no one cares about how we feel. Lost in a foreign land, hungry and tired, the crowd still tries to disturb us. It can be very irritating, especially when the town is jammed, we have to squeeze through every road user and wait patiently behind the long queue while Hope Too will switch on its’ hair dryer.


Case 1:

It’s at Allahabad, 2nd day of Chinese New Year where we first taste the feel of the real Indian highway from Varanasi, about 150km away. We reached the town in about 2 and half hours and start to ask the local about the name of the guest house we intend to stay. Every instruction from the local leads us deeper into the town and of course, the jam and crowd gets heavier. At last I gave up the intended lodging and try one that has a gate parking by the main street. It’s really a busy street and the ‘magnet’ is very strong in Allahabad. Sam went up to enquire about the room rates while I try to manage the crowd. Sam did not see the room that they quoted because it is not safe for her to follow the man into the room alone. While I was parking my bike into the garage, the crowd was so packed that I’m shouting for Sam to help me steer Hope Too. It was a hard time. It became peaceful when the gate shuts down and we are in the compound. Being set at 300IRP for a double room, we were pretty satisfied but once we entered the room, it was the WORST that we ever stayed in India. It’s their business style. When we are lost and tired, business man will try to make this opportunity to earn more from our weakness. I read the ‘Room Rates’ board after bathing, knowing that we are staying at a 100IRP standard room! The worker’s domarity is much better and cleaner than what we are staying at. Well, it’s part of the game.

We are careless, it’s our fault.

Case 2:
Reaching Kanpur from Allahabad, 200km away, we get to know a place to stay through some research from internet. We reached Kanpur quite early, about 11am. It took us one hour to get to the Alibaba guest house and parking facility was not secured. We have to search of an alterntive one. After another one hour or so of struggle in the town, we managed to get the cheapest available. It was SHIV DAYAL THE HOTEL. 111A/4, G.T. Road, Ashok Nagar, Kanpur (Near Gumti No.5 Gurudwara) Ph.: 0512-2541980, 2541357. Fax: +91-512-2552335. Email: shivdayal_thehotel@yahoo.com.
Mr Dharmendra Kackar was at the desk when we enquire about the rates. He gave me a sheet of Fact & Tariff Sheet and I chose the cheapest Deluxe Room, double occupancy, it states 700. We were brought to room number 204. We wanted to pay for the room first but he will say ‘it’s okie, pay when you check out’. Every time I walked pass the reception, they are real friendly, greeted me, crack jokes and refuse to get payment from me. Hope Too was much secured as she was privately being sent to the rear gate where the key to the gate is only held by the reception.

When we checked out on 10 February 2008 0900hrs, Mr Dharmendra was out of the town and Mr S.N. Chaturvedi was taking care of the payment. He claimed that we are staying in an Executive Room and it was 1200. I refreshed him that when we checked in yesterday, we requested a 700 room from Mr Dharmendra. Chaturvedi said ’yes, 700 per person, with luxury tax and service charges, it is 1380, that come out to be about 700 per person. Also it’s impossible for you to stay in the deluxe room because it is full yesterday!’ He kept repeating and repeating the same sentence while I tried to explain how Dharmendra agree on the 700 room rate. Chaturvedi voice turns louder into an aggressive tone. I was surrounded by his staff. At this point of time, I was in their hand. Sam was in the room, Hope Too was locked in the garage, and I have to pay what ever the bill states. After handling the cash to him, he smiled at me and gave me a hand shake. Chaturvedi was fast and able to switch his mind and words when ever I caught him into any loop hole for charging me double.

From this incident, we learned a very hard lesson. Pay when we check in and get the receipt. I would strongly request the Tourism Cooperation Development of India to look into this matter seriously. It was a real burn out in our wallet.

We are again careless. It’s our fault.

Case 3:

We are in Agra, where this City holds the world’s number one world heritage, Taj Mahal. We asked a few locals about the direction to Taj Mahal. Even they do not understand the English language that I was trying to say but at least to know the word Taj Mahal from my mouth. As usual, a few will try to shout at me when we ride pass, I decided to ask the direction from this guy. I tried to say the word Taj Mahal in different volume for 5 times and he pointed to an opposite direction (which I realized later). It led us to a totally off road, under construction, dusty, humid and jammed road which injure Hope Too. I tried to ask a few again, some speaking very good English and started to point left and right. Well, we are definitely NOT SMART enough to believe on who we choosed to ask direction from.

It’s our fault.

Case 4:

We pitched a tent in one of the guest houses in Agra; we paid 100IRP per night to use their lawn. It was running 4°C at night and it was really cold sleeping in the tent. We have to save $. We saved more from cooking our own meals. The vegetables were running out and we decide to ride Hope Too without its side panniers to the town to replenish the stocks.

As usual, we stopped at a small lane where there are lots of vegetables sellers laying their products on the floor. Sam was with Hope Too, about 3 meters where I squat down to choose potatoes from the old lady. As I was choosing, a kind man took away the potatoes from my hand saying the ones that I had chosen was not good. He helped me to choose a few good ones. I only need to buy half kilogram of it and he said no, at least one kilogram. I thought to myself, maybe it’s a wholesale market and they do not sell in smaller quantities, and to support the old lady’s business. I choosed one kilogram of potatoes and one kilogram of beans. There laid another stall, selling different vegetables, manned by an old man. I chose tomatoes and chye sim. This kind man helped me to choose and the same theory applies, at least one kilogram, quoted by this kind man. I asked the old man in total how much it cost by using hand signal, he said ‘paach’, which means 5IRP of all of this. This kind man translated to me ‘ten rupees’. I have a quick thought, maybe he just wants to earn a 5IRP of commission from me, which is ok or 5IRP for tomatoes and chye sim. I handed 10IRP out and grabbed the plastic bags. The kind man stopped me, saying, ‘10IRP of tomatoes, and 10IRP for chye sim. Total 20IRP.’ Immediately something is wrong with this kind man@!#@! While I was battling with the kind man, Sam was really really busy keeping the hands from the bunch of the kids from molesting and triggering the switches of Hope Too. I was a mass. The crowd in growing bigger. Many passer by wants to see how I buy vegetables and some kids starts to touch me, which I alerted my rear pocket, having my daily cash in it. It was a mass. Upon paying 20IRP to the old man, which is supposed to be 5IRP, I returned to the old lady’s stall and pay for the potatoes and beans that has been chosen. I asked the old lady ‘how much’ and showed her hand signal. She said ‘paach’, which means 5. This kind man followed me and said ‘ten rupees’. At this time of situation, it really pissed me off and set my coal ignited. Sam was busy with the kids, I was pestered with this kind man, and the heavy crowd was surrounding us with thousands of eyes. I told the man to go away. He quietly walked back into the crowd. It’s now between me and the old lady. I handed 5IRP to her and she gave me the Indian head shake, means ok. I told myself ‘is it too cheap even she just wants 5IRP for all of these?’ I digged my wallet out for some extra coins to gave her, 5IRP. For a second, she refuses but after some shouting from the crowd, she accepted about 3-4 of the 5IRP coins. It’s ok for me to pay her more since she does not have the intention to charge me extra. It’s the kind man, which is pestering me off!

Lesson learned: there are Robin Hoods in the town. The vegetable sellers really pure people.

Case 5:

After buying the vegetables, I was quite happy but the crowd was still there. Kids are still touching Hope Too as I shooo them off. In the crowd, a young man in brown shirt held his camera out and wants to take picture of us. I jokingly told him ’50 rupees for me with the bike’. He replied ‘200 rupees to take a picture of her (my wife Sam) and bike’. That was humiliating! I just wanted to be friendly with the locals and they replied in a humiliating way. I said ‘No. No photos then. Go away.’ When I started Hope Too and Sam got on behind, the kids just kick and bang Hope I said ‘No. No photos then. Go away.’ When I started Hope Too and Sam got on behind, the kids just kick and bang Hope Too’s rear case. Sam turned around to warn the kids not to do it and as I accerated, I could feel some restricting. Feels like they are pulling Hope Too. I heard some shouting from Sam and I stopped after 5 meters of travel. She said that brown shirt guy pinched her bottom. I got down, run back to the crowd, smiling and waving, ‘who wants to take a picture? Photos? Photos?’ as I was searching for that guy in brown. Nothing. Crowd was dismissed because the police jeep arrived. In the jeep, seated 5 policemen. I tried to tell them by touching the police backside and said ‘my wife, my wife’ and pointed to the direction to the crowd. Guess what he does? Immediate action for the police is he made a phone call using his cell phone. Seems like not getting through the line. Then still at his seat along with 4 others, I pointed to the direction of that brown shirt guy, which was behind the jeep and rubbed the policeman’s backside. He asked me to keep quiet and he talked to a local kid. Misunderstanding the situation that my wallet has been stolen, I gave up and rode away with Sam and Hope Too.

Lesson learn:
a) Even it is a stolen wallet, why was the 5 policemen’s immediate action was to make a phone call? Was the phone call made for asking back up forces for this minor case where 5 strong policemen were sitting on the jeep all the way?
b) Don’t try to be smart to outrun or to be friendly with them.

Case 6:

I was walking passed a group of auto-rickshaw drivers, taking their break by playing cards. They are Mr A, B, C and D. Mr A saw me having a tobacco stick on my mouth and opened his mouth ‘HALOW! YOU! HAAALOOW! My friend (Mr B) wants a bide (the tobacco stick).’ Without thinking much, I just handed one to him and A passed it to B while B was busy with cards. I joked with a ‘two rupees’, smiling at my best. B told A something and asked him to return the bide to me. I told him I was just joking and I’m sure he can have it. All the while B did not have eye contact with me. He accepted the bide without saying anything. Suddenly, Mr C turned to me, shouted at me which he was sitting less than one meter from me ‘DO YOU HAVE A LICENCE TO SELL BIDE?!!?? WHERE IS YOUR LICENCE?!’ I was stunned! The tone is exactly like as if I got a warning from my primary school discipline teacher! The group continued their game.

Lesson learned: again, don’t try to outrun, be friendly, and be kind to them. It’s my fault.

Case 7:
At Pushkar, the holy village, I was riding Hope Too through a small barricade, just missing 2cm from its side panniers. On the side, which was the opposite direction, 3 motorbikes were queuing up to get through another gate. After we squeezed through the gate, I stopped and adjust some switches, which no vehicle was behind me and I was not obstruction anyone. The first motorbike among the 3 that was queuing to get through the gate on the opposite direction, stopped and appreciate Hope Too, causing 2nd and 3rd bike to stop and jammed up. The rider of the 2nd bike shouted fiercely at me ‘YOUUUU. HALOWW. YOU GO! DON’T STOP HERE!!’ I wasn’t causing his jam; it’s the first bike that caused it!
Lesson learn, there is no right of way. I am in fault again by attracting attention from the first bike, making him stop and jammed the place.

Enough for lesson learned. Day after, I shall share with all of you, the really nice side of people I have met. They just helped me without asking for any returns. I will be at Pakistan then. Hope the internet connection will be cheap.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

at last few days in India.

at last, we reached amritsar. going to visit the famous golden temple 2morow. it's in the state of Punjab. all singh here. it's the center for the Sikh.

N 31deg 38.019'
E074deg 52.613'

u guys back at home must be very comfortable, sitting behind the moniter reading this with a glass of beer, thinking of tomorrow's work stuff. over here, we are thinking how to survive in Pakistan with the current situation now. bombing everywhere. i will see how it goes. it will not be an easy task in pakistan right now for us but we will be going there in 3 days time. we are lodging at the border now, hoping to recive more news.

Monday, February 25, 2008

some intresting places along the way









10 feb 2008. at Agra, we found this hotel, we request 2 pitch at tent as it was only 100IRP (S$3.80) per night and we are allowed to use the toilet and shower. it's where the famous Taj Mahal is where people all over the world came to see the number one world heritage. we are sleeping in a 4 degrees celcius condition at night!

TJMHL on my hands. we are not allowed to take pictures inside the main tomb. i heard that some of the thumbs of the workers have been amputated because they do not want a repeated perfection to be made again.
Entrance fee was 750IRP SGD$28.57 per person and we cannot take pictures? we took a auto rickshaw (175IRP) to the rear of the Taj to get a better view.the visitors at Taj were standing there to take pictures at our site where they paid to appricate our view. hee..
road the state of rajastan border.


14 Feb 2008. we are at Jaipur, the biggest city of Rajastan. so called the pink city.


17 Feb 2008, we reached Pushkar, the holy village of Rajastan. we met intresting traveller along the way and watch the sunrise together. this is a vegetarian village. no meat. no alcholo. guess what, i found a beer shop just outside this holy village just less than 1km away. in 3pm, the locals are already drunk there!
this teaman sell tea on his mobile shop. when he is on move, he would put the pedestal and the whole tray on the head, making the overall height of 4 meters.in the morning, they would come to this lake to pray and bath.(Left to right) Marthar (spain), Sam, Gary (UK) and a Korean couple joined us as they reached Pushkar at 5am in the dark and cold morning where no one is on the road, searching for a place to stay. we accompanied them along with the sunrise. along with them is Gary on the same bus.
nice friends all over the world and she's from Argentina. the night was so fun chatting at roof top as i forgot to ask her name. sorry my friend. if you see this please do tell us your name. she was brave! she travelled alone!my first engine oil change for Hope Too.

so near only? along highway 8, this is a very unique road marker promoting the village of Deogarh.

N 25deg 33.105'

E073deg52.790'

19 Feb 2008, the place where octopussy was filmed. Udaipur. we had a romantic sunset boat ride in the lake.
City Palace nearing sunset.
This is where the Maharaja lived.
along the boat ride in the evening, before sun totally sets and the moon rises above the City Palace.
the famous lake palace hotel at night
at the guest house , the entance to the parking lot fits exactly Hope Too's side panniers.
we often cook our own meal in the guest house to save $.


along someway to Jodhpur, we got off track from the main highway and it rewarded us with very intresting road. Discovery!

21 Feb 2008. Johdpur was named the blue city. it's amazing fort has convinced us for a really worth of a visit! it has a audio tour guide. it's one of the finest fort that we have ever visited.

with us was the owner of the guest house, sunrise guest house. great parking. good people. nice room. worth the $$$! call mr prakash or mr anil at 09828272031 or email" anilsunriseguesthouse@yahoo.commr Prakash is only 28 years old! i think he is a bollywood star.


this magic carpet, at Jalsalmer. should we buy one back for uncle dickk?along the way to Jalsalmer. desert highway.

jalsalmer! great desert safari on camel!

















we had the 2 days one night camel safari at the royal Thar desert. rajastan. i believe it's the nearest desert from singapore. sand are so find and untouched. sand dunes left over are the best to apprciate.



the camel man is nice. the tour operator at our hotel is nice because he is a great businessman, man of his word. Hope Too is there without us for a night and when we are back, we found Hope Too sleeping at his rest spot peacefully. thank god nothing has happened to it.



the Arabian night was the best in the night. sleeping with just thick blanket provided on the sand, 4 inches above our eye level is the stars. it's so close and so clear. we laid down peacefully on the cool sand counting stars.
later the next day we went to the famouse Sam desert to watch the beautiful sunsetting into the sea of sand. camel riding can be tiring to your arse but it's fun and rewarding. knowing the behaviour of the camel is intresting.
can you see my location?mr amar and his assistance prepared our dinner. fire was started by the dry twigs collected easily by the nearby bushes. dishwasing liquid is not popular in the desert survival, instead, sand is used to clean the utensis and then rinsed with a bit of water.
h

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Rajastan!

once we cross from the state of Uttar Pradesh into Rajasthan, things are TOTALLY DIFFERENT! there still be a bit of touts, there still be people coming to see Hope Too. But these people do not do it the Uttar Pradesh way. i see Rajasthan as a better and richer state. the kids do not come to you and ask for money instead they would say hello to u. the grown up have their own business to care about and they 'mind their own business'. they still see us for a second and the smile is much more genuine. suprisingly, hotel and guest houses here are more cheaper and better than in the state of Uttar Pradesh.

we are in Udaipur today.
N 24deg 35.630'
E073deg 41.845'
Udaipur is known as the most romantic city in india. we had yet to explore the town as the journey today from Pushkar is about 280km, taking a hard 6hours. Pushkar is a very small village but known thro out the world for it's camel festival in November. thou people and place are much nicer, today's oncoming vehicle is very aggresive. trucks head on towards your direction, forcing Hope Too's brake smoking and my feet trying hard to reach for the ground. there are some parts of the highway where there is no road shoulder and the opposite truck is overtaking the vehicle infront, coming straight towards us, leaving us with only 1 foot of clearance space.

gotta sleep early tonight. going to the lake with Sam tomorrow to watch the romantic sunrise!

more to come.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

india pics

at last.



this is to the birth place of the buddha at Nepal




we are now at Jaipur, Rajastan state. lots of camels and the people are less of a hassel.
more desert and sand. it's definatly a richer state.


got a few arguement with the locals about taking pictures of me, especially my wife. im not being stingy but they are not up to good deal. they have never seen a asian lady in their life before. each will STARE, yes STARE at her and give her an evil smile, not like the usual smile. they just take out their camera and shoot at us. i give my palm out to the camera and said : NO PICTURES!!!! unless they are genuine people that is intrested in my bike. road here are tough. we cannot manage to stop anywhere because the village will come and gather around us close enough, just as near as one foot away. even stopping at traffic lights, those walking pedestrain will come to Hope Too and look over my meter even in riding. I CANT STAND IT! these are the city people. they disrepect the tourist.



i was conned a few times by the local. overcharging us double by the loop hole. darm those people. it's hard earn $ and they think it's easy money. so far most of the people we met are up to no good. they see us as rich tourist. im not a tourist. im a traveller.


beautiful Varanasi. but people just shit on the street, like animals!the river of Ganga behind Sam is the Holiest river in India.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

strange culture

first day when we got into a india hotel, it's full because there's a wedding function. there's no reception nor person incharge of the hotel. everyone juz crowd around Hope Too and us. when we got a room and shower ourselves, we went down. they invited me to their buffet dinner. everybody is so friendly and we started chatting with each other. then we start taking pictures. they are camera freaks! when they are in the picture, they will feel so happy. so, after one picture and after one picture, they would request for another pose and take more pictures.


some of them are friendly and some suddenly don't like us. we tried to go into the restuarant to take pictures with the guide of a local but we were chased out of the hall!


i went out to see around the road, another says in a serious tone, 'it's dark here, you have had your dinner, please go back to your room, please, this is india.'


i just want to loitter around with them and chit chat. maybe im attracting too much attention from the guest rather that the attention should be at the bride and the bride groom.


wierd.


we respect their culture and religon by not taking pict, i feel they do not respect us by intruding into our personal space and our breathing space. as a tourist, we respect their culture by not doing some things that they don't like, but what about us? do they know what we like and what we don't like?

while i was walking to the hotel counter to check the rates out and Sam was with Hope Too to guard the stuff, one indian man was chatting over the phone, walked in circle and spotted Hope Too. he got nothing to do but to use my foot brake pedal to remove the mud/shit on his shoe while chatting on the phone, like how some of us draw rubbish on paper while chatting on phone. then he stepped and release the brake to make loud click noises. Sam as looking straight at him but his mind is on the phone. i saw it while i was coming back to Sam and he walked away.

they would gather around us and and lay their elbow with their body weight on Hope Too's side panniers. at the hotel, Hope Too was covered. As soon as i remove the cover to do some admin stuff, 4-8 person would gather and ask the WWWHH. 1) Where you come from? 2) What is the tank capacity? 3) What brand of made it is? 4)How much can u go with one liter of petrol? 5) How much it cost in Rupees?

i start to love them. some like to guess where we come from by saying hello in japanese or korean. i didn't reply and they tried harder by saying some country names like Taiwan, China, Thailand, Japan..... hoping i would react. even they say Spore i don't care. if they come infront of me asking me to visit their shops or introduce their services to me, i would say in a strange language back to them where i don't even know what am i talking about.

i start to be curious about them. the more i fear them, the more i want to get near them. some people dislike because some of the indian here are dirty. i want to train myself that they would avoid me as if i first saw them. i want them to automatic avoid me. maybe be more dirty than them? may be more persistant than them by asking back question to them? maybe to those touts, i would try to talk about taking money from them.

it's starting to explore india and the people here. it may sounds wierd but i want to look into my fear and overcome it. im very used to the horn here. even i would horn like them.

on average, i can only go on 40km every hour on the highway. the days are short and night falls early. i got to reach a town maximum 200km away everyday.

well, i will try harder to find a better internet cafe in India to upload my pictures here.

Gong Xi Fa Cai...

huat ah India!

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Thank You!

i would like to thank Tanglin Secondary Military Band Alumni friends (AKA TTMB), all the majong kakis, contributing to our RTW fund. they are Guoliang, Dehua, Xianghui, Haojie and Jianhao. thanks mann.. i appricate u guys effort!

also to Koh Chin Yee, have not seen you for many years as u guys are in UAE. miss the days together! will u fly to anywhere along my route? thanks for your 'one road prosperity' donation. so far it's the largest donation to our fund. please please, i wanna C u!

thank you all my friends!

GONG XI FA CAI INDIA!

hello everyone back in singapore, drink beers, eating steamboat with family, buying new clothes and watching the count down TCS 8 in your comfortable living room with your family.

we are at Varanasi, India now. highway roads are deadly with rushing trucks and buses coming into your lane and squeeze you to the side of the road. i got to look out holes, cows, man, trishaw, bikes and everything that is about 100m of my radius.

city condition is bad. jammed with rickshaws and human! Hope Too goes screaming as her heater fan turns on.

we read the lonely planet, guest house is about 100-200IRP per night ( SGD$3.80-$7.60) but that was on the date of published. we went in it was 450-600IRP (SGD$17.00 - $22.00)! we ended up going round again to search for the safest (for Hope Too) and cheapest around. there are many many guest house we can stay but they do not have carpark. we end up staying in 300IRP (SGD$11.40) with lousy toilet and 20 mosqito to fly around your ears when we sleep.

terrible! i got to cover Hope Too as soon as i stop anywhere but not possible because they would come like magnet and look, touch, observe Hope Too and us. when we about to leave a meal point, looking back it was like a village meeting, causing traffic jam along the highway because trucks also stopped to view us.

last point was at Nepal, Lumbini where we visited the birth place of the Buddha. we stayed in a Korean Temple where lodging is free. the meal and lodging is the best and most peaceful that i can ever get! Sam slept in ladies dorm with 2 china and a japanese girl. i slept alone in a big dorm. all 3 meals was provided and Hope Too was sleeping outside our dorm. i feel so safe! meal was buffet style with big pots of home cook food. u gotta wash your own dishes and make your own bed. i want to stay longer till chinese new year but it's too comfortable here. all you need is a donation into the box and that's it!

we left early morning to the border. getting into india is easy. all documents done!

we set off to a town called Bauhalganj. only hotel is full as there's a wedding function going on. we were to wait outside the hotel and surrounded by about 20-30man, touching Hope Too and look like us as if we were from Mars.

note: when i say hotel, the standard is dusty road, people spiting in front of u, along the fence of the road there are man urinating like a public toilet. the hotel is like Jalan Besah type of building, facilities are in 1960s and there isn't much lights. toilets are always wet with many mosquito, blanket/bedsheet/pillowcase are used and dirty! no bare foot in the room as the floor is very dirty! AND THEY ARE CHARGING US 300IRP!>!>?!??!?!?!?@#?$#mfskhfi#$oH5 B'QERlwejfl:k$jTU48 05$^$#^%#$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i miss CNY. chinese new year songs, greetings, goodies, food, relative and friends. can somebody mms me photo of food and pic of CNY? can somebody MMS me songs of CNY?

i recive mms and sms free!